Three Fingered Jack

Saturday, August 4, 2012
Leader: Brian Hamilton
Climb: 11 miles, 3000 ft

It was a very warm evening when we pulled into the parking lot at Santiam Pass PCT trailhead on Friday. We slept at the trailhead, but other climbers driving into the parking area and a bright, almost-full moon made sleep hard to come by for some of us. We awoke in time to see two other groups of climbers hit the trail before us and we were on our way at 4:20 AM. The first group ahead of us was slow to cross the “crawl” and we had to wait for the second group to cross before we roped up. We left one rope at the “crawl” and both of the other groups took advantage of it and tied into it with prusiks for their descent. We anchored our second rope from the base of the chimney to south end of the summit promontory. Each of our climbers was belayed out to the actual summit before returning and rappelling back down the chimney. There were strong winds all morning, but they died down in time for us to enjoy views from the summit. Lack of winds also brought out mosquitoes that attacked us as we crossed snow banks still covering the PCT for a quarter mile south of the climbers’ trail. A hot, dusty trek down the trail got us back to the trailhead by 4:15 PM.

Members: Brian Hamilton, Frank Chemotti, Dalen Willhite. Nonmembers: Jessica Kieras, Jonathan Marshall, Liz Hurkes.

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