My original plan was to climb via the Whitewater Glacier. As the summit was still rimed up and Jeff Park was mostly snow covered I decided that we would climb the West Rib route instead.
We hiked in via the Woodpecker Trail and the PCT to snow-bound Milk Creek. Weird. Milk Creek was filled with snow about 20' deep, covered in places by a thin layer of mud. Two tenths of a mile up the creek we followed a faint climbers trail up to snow covered slopes and our camp at 6700'.
The next morning we started our climb in the dark. The rib was still in fairly good condition snow-wises. There were only a couple places where we had to scramble over rock. A rope was used to protect the traverse to the north side of the pinnacle. From there we scrambled up steep snow to a notch north of the usual ramp, then on the east side on easy but exposed rock to the summit.
After a short stay on top, admiring the views of distant peaks, valleys and lakes, and exchanging mutual congratulations, we reversed the route and hiked back down the rib to our camp. We were astonished by the amount of snow that had melted during our climb.
The second night was not quite as warm as the first, a bit breezy and slightly damp. In the morning we packed up and hiked back out to the cars.Members: Wayne Deeter, Juli McGlinsky, Steve Kuhn, Dave Jensen, Danneille Harris, Sean Breslin.
Relaxing on top—photo by Wayne Deeter
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