Our assistant trip leader Bob Kaminski had to cancel at the last moment due to a family emergency so the three of us met in Portland for the long drive north. Sunday night was spent at Douglas Fir CG (USFS) practicing glacier travel techniques and discussing the climbing route. We left from the Heliotrope trailhead around 09:30 on Monday and set up camp on a flat area of the Coleman Glacier at 6,900' that afternoon. This climb differed from others I've been on by spending some time acclimating and resting before the summit push. I think it made for a more enjoyable adventure.
Tuesday was a long day. Starting from our camp at 04:25 and reaching the summit around 09:15 via the Coleman-Deming route. Several crevasses were open around 8,000' but easily circumnavigated and a well worn boot track led to the 10,781' summit. We returned to the car around 16:00 and were enjoying dinner at Graham's Restaurant in glacier by 17:00 before our long drive back to Oregon. All three participants summited without incident. Having strong, knowledgeable, well prepared participants made leading this climb a breeze. There are some photos posted on www.obsidians.orgMembers: Roy McCormick, Bill Lowder. Nonmembers: Yukti Aggarwal.
Final push to our high camp at 6,900' on the Coleman Glacier—photo by Roy McCormick
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