When John Mowat and I scouted the peak on the Tuesday before the climb, there was a lot of snow on the route, and a returning climbing party reported that the gully just below Chicken Ledge was choked with ice. They reported that they had to turn back for lack of crampons, and they had used ice axes in several places on the ascent. So, as a precaution, the group headed out with ice axes and I was prepared to put a rope up below Chicken Ledge if necessary to get through that spot. However, four days of warm weather and sunshine made the story completely different when we went up on Saturday. The snow on the lower part of the ridge actually made the ascent (and descent!) easier than usual, and the ice had all melted out of the gully. We were practically the only people on the mountain in windless, sunny and warm weather. A fixed line was put in from Chicken Ledge to the summit block, and we enjoyed the view for a few minutes before beginning the descent. All in all a fine day!Members: Sue Sullivan, Dalen Willhite. Nonmembers: Marge Huseman, Amanda MacLeod, Chris Melton, Bryce Mason, Bill Lowder.
Heading up the ridge near the crossing of the Pacific Crest Trail—photo by Amanda MacLeod
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