South Sister, Broken Top

August 16-17, 1997

Leaving Eugene at 6:00 a.m. is a rude way to start a weekend in the mountains, but necessary for the “mountain marathon” weekend. We set up camp south-east of Green Lakes in my favorite “designated campsite”. Broken Top was the afternoon objective. After the standard 10/15' rock climb at the summit block, we climbed the exposed south rib directly to the summit. Nice route (John had climbed it before and led the pitch). Great rock — a recommended variation. Got back to Green Lakes at about 6:00 p.m. for swim time.

Sunday was South Sister day. We climbed the “old crater” route. This route is seldom climbed as evidenced by lack of trails or footprints. No one I know has climbed it, except Bert Ewing many years ago, and he said it was not an “I-1” route as listed in the guide book. Route finding wasn’t a big problem, but serious scree, an interesting rappel to a rotten ledge and a leader who was slightly unwell made this a 6½-hour route (Creek to Summit). The spectacular view into the “old crater” from the rappel area made this route worth doing. Clouds played with the summit as we arrived. The snow field on the regular east side exit route was the largest I have ever seen for this time of year; this enabled us to get down in two hours. Great weather, great group, interesting new route. Another great weekend! Climbers were John & Kristen Englehart, Julian Peñaloza, Shawn Lockery and Ed Lovegren (leader).

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