Middle Sister

July 29-30, 1995

Early pioneers named the Middle Sister “Hope” (as in Faith, Hope and Charity), and we all had hope the weather would clear as we hiked in to Arrowhead Lake under morning clouds. This is the new “permit only” area, and our permit was checked both at the trailhead and at the lake. Unfortunately, we saw no indication of less people. Most of us slept under the sky, which had cleared completely.

Up at 3:00 am, we were out of camp by 4:00. There was still a good deal of snow, and we put on our crampons almost right away. This made the climb up to the Collier Glacier great climbing, and we were soon working our way up the North Ridge of the Middle Sister. The only difficulty was a short but steep pitch of snow (about 30 degrees), but perfect for our crampons. At about 8:00 we were all on the summit! Clear morning skies revealed the Cascades from Adams to Shasta (maybe!). We enjoyed naming peaks and landmarks like the Husband and the Wife for more than an hour. On our descent we used the Renfrew Glacier and we dropped elevation quickly sliding down the snow.

Thanks to Doug Nelson for his help as assistant leader. Other climbers were Karl & Melinda Kriegh, Kohei Hatta, John Hanby, Van Likes and John Pegg, leader.


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