Three Fingered Jack
July 15, 1995
Seven thirty am found our group of six heading north on the PCNST for the five-mile approach to
the base of Three Fingered Jack.
Great weather and a strong group made the miles go fast.
Ice axes were used to help negotiate the hard snow on the slopes to the notch of the South Ridge
where we met two other climbing groups.
The benefit of hard hats was apparent as rocks kicked loose from climbers above created a constant
Most of our group had not climbed Jack before and anticipation grew as we reached the infamous
A fixed line was set and each climber prusiked across.
The summit block provided our next roped obstacle.
All six climbers were belayed to above the rappel point and then one at a time, each had the
opportunity to climb the final 30 feet to the very airy, sharp-edged summit ridge.
Rappelling down from the summit block and a reverse trip across the “crawl” completed
the roped portions of the climb.
The hike out was more challenging than normal when all of us missed the Crest Trail on the descent
and spent half an hour hiking over snow and through woods wondering whether we were east or
west of the trail.
A group stop with map and compass pointed us back to the trail.
The final hour was hiked at the fastest pace possible as the mosquitoes decided we were the best
Seven-thirty pm found the trailhead and the end of a very satisfying climb.
This excellent group of climbers made the task of leading a breeze; each was helpful and
supportive of the others when needed and each came back a stronger climber than when they started.
Climbers were Steve Goins, Brian Hoyland, Andy McIvor, Josh Ladau, Andy Dungan
and Harold Thompson, leader.