Three Fingered Jack

August 28, 1993

Left the Pacific Crest Trailhead about 0815 and had an easy, conversational hike into the base of Jack. After a scramble up the soft soil and a romp through the scrub trees, we reached the south ridge. As we approached the crawl we saw people on the summit with one acrobat doing a handstand. Immediately behind us a party of three came up quickly and “played through” as we were setting up a fixed line across the crawl. The center of that fixed line was anchored to the old but still sturdy piton that I seem to remember from my first climb of Jack in 1950 (I must have been at least three years old then?!?!). Arriving at the saddle we counted ten crowded climbers on the summit mass — four from the Mazamas, the three mentioned above, and another party of three. Cozy! After waiting one and a half hours for them to descend we summitted without incident. Also descended the whole mountain without incident as well as the hike back to the cars without incident. This non-incidental climb was exceptionally good due to the weather and the compatibility of the group. First-timers were Mike Barkin, Richard Cramer and Tim Trajillo. For the rest of us (Jan & Rich Anselmo, Jerry Crosby, John Pegg, and leader Bud Proctor) it was a repeat climb because we couldn’t think of anything we’d rather do than do another climb together.

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