Three Fingered Jack/Mt. Washington

August 7-8, 1993

Just after dawn on Saturday, August 7, we started from the Santiam PCNST trailhead intending to beat any crowds up Three Fingered Jack. We were fortunate to have left so early, for by the time we reached the crawl, we could see a lot of climbers on the ridge behind us. But, first to the crawl, first up the summit block, and so six of our seven climbers summited while the saddle became more crowded than I have ever seen it.

The next day we left again just after dawn from PCNST trailhead by Big Lake. Our destination this day was Mt. Washington, by the north ridge. A group from Eugene Parks & Rec., however, had camped on the ridge, so they were first to the saddle. This was a blessing, though, for our leader enjoyed a belay on the climb to the belay ledge, and some of us used their fixed ropes on what is usually an unprotected climb from the belay ledge to the top. All five of our climbers summited on this gorgeous day. Five climbers climbed both mountain over the weekend, the largest group I have ever had do both with me.

Making this a special group, besides the number, was that for every climber but the leader this was a first time up these two peaks. Climbing both mountains were Chris & Truman Grandy, Mike Landes, Jamie Schick and leader George Jobanek. Leslie Shawyer climbed Three Fingered Jack. Jamie Schick deserves special commendation for his able assistance and direction. Look for Jamie as a leader worth going with on some mountains next year.

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