Diamond Peak

May 23, 1993

Having had to turn back on April 24 because of nearly waist-deep snow, we decided to make another summit attempt. After all, what good is a year without a climb of Diamond? Because of some confusion on where to find the trailhead, only Jan and I showed up at 0600. We started at 0630 in sneakers at the Pioneer Gulch Trailhead. Fifteen minutes later we changed to our shell boots. We made good progress over the now firmer snow and gained the SW ridge in less than two hours. At 1055 we were on the summit. Huge cornices overlapped the east side with two significant avalanches down below. Another massive avalanche had plowed down the north-west ridge. While sheltered behind a snow bank we heard voices. Lo and behold, here came Jerry, Karin and David. Their route was via a snow field just south of our route. There was a great reunion on the summit. While exchanging comments of “Whatever happened to Rick Ahrens?” we set up some snow anchors and practiced a crevasse rescue scenario on the summit. Three hours later, we began our descent. The snow was generally too soft for glissading. In fact, we almost initiated a small avalanche! We decided to plunge-step our way back to the trailhead. Two hours later, after barely escaping the Pioneer Gulch mosquitoes, we headed home. A great climb with Jerry Crosby, Karin Thompson, David ?-? (his first mountain climb), Jan & leader Rich Anselmo.

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