Three Fingered Jack

September 26, 1987

An early morning departure from Eugene under unexpected clear skies got all four climbers to Santiam Pass by the 6 a.m. departure time. Unfortunately, the clear skies did not extend to the Cascade Divide and we began our climb of Jack in heavy fog and clouds.

The near freezing temperatures dropped below the magic mark as we approached the 6500' elevation, where we were treated to a beautiful rime ice display on the trees and rocks. As we left the protection of the trees on the lower ridge, the wind in conjunction with the snow (blowing ice) provided a graphic example of why the leader had insisted on being prepared for cold/wet/windy weather on the trip.

Climbing past the gendarmes, the rime ice build up on the rocks was becoming increasingly hazardous and the hope for clearing skies was diminishing. It was decided that Three Fingered Jack would best by summited another day. A quick trip out allowed us time back in Eugene to celebrate for Bill Bankston, Linda Erz, Chris Nelson and John Jacobsen, leader.


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