Mt. Hood via the Wy-East Route

June 13-14, 1986

Six of our group spent part of the night at the Camp Creek Campground near Rhododendron while the other two camped not far from the parking lot at Timberline Lodge. The 8 of us started out about 3:50 a.m. with a light warm wind. We passed Silcox Hut and angled up to the right. After following along the White River Glacier we found a place to descend to the glacier and cross it, then followed a long snow slope up to the ridge.

We had sunshine for a time then clouds moved in and out before finally settling in for good. The wind increased and picked up sand and small pebbles from the areas free of snow. This was rather pleasant on our faces.

Bruce decided to turn back as his knee was becoming increasingly troublesome for him. Jerry had done the route with the leader 2 years earlier so returned with Bruce as he did not want to have him go down along.

With the increasing wind velocity we wanted to reach the end of the steel cliffs to see if we might have some protection from the wind there. There was none. The wind was not coming around the mountain but was coming down from the top. The gusty winds were sometimes almost blowing us off our feet and progress was exhausting. We turned back about 10:25 a.m. Rocks were falling very near us at times. Visibility was very poor but it was not a whiteout. We were able to find our tracks. It started to drizzle on us and with the wind blowing sand we were getting mud on our clothing.

We were wet when we returned to the car at 1:40 p.m. It was raining lightly at Timberline. Jerry and Bruce had returned an hour earlier and had talked to climbers who had reached the summit by the normal route. They reported winds of 60-80 mph on top and increasing by the hour.

We found warm sunshine below and were back in Eugene by 5:30 p.m. We had a good group of climbers and a good climb, but unfortunately were on the mountain on the wrong day.

Climbers were nonmembers Bruce Farthing, Steve Koester and Chris Courchaine and members Sally Grosscup, Christine Ligneau, Jerry Mohler, Kathy Perkins and leader Norm Benton.

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