Mt. Hood, via Wy’East Route
April 29-30, 1983
After some of us spent part of the night near Camp Creek Campground, seven climbers assembled at the signout area of the Day room near Timberline Lodge. We started out at 3:45 a.m. on a clear, windless morning. The mountain was majestic against the dark sky. When we arrived at the White River Glacier, we found cliffs of snow and ice along much of the bank. After ascending for a time, we were able to drop down onto the glacier for the crossing. The snow was firm on the surface until we neared the end of the steel cliffs.
We planned to do a variation of the Wy’East route, going up the ice gullies on the end of the steel cliffs. However, due to the leader’s troublesome ankle, we decided to stay on the main route, where the snow would be softer, and easier, on the ankle. We had deep snow in places, but made fair progress by plunge-stepping on the steeper slopes.
The leader is grateful to Tom for breaking trail much of the way. When we arrived at the notch on the ridge, the leader resumed the lead for the final portion, where the deep snow on steep slopes made climbing more interesting than usual. We arrived on top at 2:20, and were greeted by a light wind, which followed us all the way down. By 5:25 we had all returned to the cars. While it had been clear for much of the ascent it clouded over later. It was a fine climb, enjoyed by all the tired climbers who had performed very well under sometimes tough going. Some of us gathered in Sandy for a food stop, and were in Eugene by 10:00 p.m.
Climbers were Ray Smith, nonmember and members Heather Anderson, Tom Donnelly, John Jacobsen, Jerry Mohler, Rex Stevens and leader Norman Benton.