Broken Top ski/climb

April 17-20, 1981

After camping at Tumalo Park for the night, we skied in towards Broken Top under clear skies. Set up camp at 1:00 p.m. at the base of Crook glacier. In evening a full moon rose, and so did we to ski across an icy crust to the north of Ball Butte and near Broken Hand. Watched the lights of Bend, then returned to camp.

Up at 4:00 a.m.—wind howling. Reset alarm for 5:00. By then the wind had died enough that we decided to leave. Climbed the glacier, then through the lowest notch in the headwall, and a traverse around to the standard ridge route. About now the clouds dropped and the wind began peppering us with tiny ice crystals. A fine snow ramp led us out over the north face of the mountain, then directly to the summit at 10:30. Thirty seconds on top, then a hurried descent to camp where Dorinda had struck one tent and was fighting to keep the other from blowing away. Packed up and skied out. Climbers were Glenn Meares, Larry Tucker, and leader Bert Ewing. Dorinda Bankston went along for the skiing.


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