Three Fingered Jack
September 6-7, 1980
6 a.m. Sunday: Started climb in fog from First Creek Camp.
9 a.m.: After considerable difficulty in finding the route through fog, we finally reached the top of south ridge. Weather condition was heavy fog (maximum visibility — 30 ft.), approximately 40 MPH wind from the west. Fog turned to rain. We did not know exactly where we were at any time on the ridge, so decided to start down to sheltered area to wait out the storm.
10 a.m.: After waiting in three areas down the ridge we decided it was hopeless and returned to camp.
11 a.m.: From First Creek Camp (fog lifted) we observed heavy clouds still blowing fiercely over the summit and upper part of the ridge. We decided we had made a wise decision.
12 noon: Broke camp and returned to cars at Jack Lake.
l:30 p.m.: From the Santiam Highway observed summit of Three Fingered Jack under clear blue sky (too late now for a climb).
Conclusion: Will try again next year with the same leaders, same route, same weekend, new weatherman.
On the climb were Dan Bates, Dan Chamness (co-leader), Richard Eden, Monty Lynn, Ed Lovegren, Wes Prouty (co-leader) and Pat Smith.