Mt. Hood, via Y-East Route

May 16-17, 1980

After two had dropped out, we accepted a group of three, giving us a total of nine in a limited size party. We arrived at Timberline in time for some to look around the lodge before returning to the Parking lot for a sleepless night because of noise. We started the climb at 3:15 a.m., and after following the normal route for a while, we angled over to the White River Glacier. Finding very steep slopes, we went up the glacier a way, then each rope leader belayed the others down the steep slope.

One leader peeled off, and accidentally spiked Fred with his crampons. After going on a short distance, Fred decided to descend, due to a stiffening knee.

As we ascended on the other side of the glacier, the firm, steep slopes slowed the leader, with his troublesome feet and ankles. Later, as the day grew warmer, the snow softened, permitting better progress. From the crest of the Steel Cliffs, we could see 2 lines of climbers on the normal route, one ascending while the other descended. One counted 64 of them.

The eight of us reached the summit about l:35 p.m., on a beautiful day. We could see from Broken Top to Rainier, although St. Helens was darkened by ash. We were about 19 hours too early to see her blow her top. After a half hour, we started down, and it was hot in the “bowl.” We had very little wind but a breeze would have felt good at times.

We returned to the cars at 4:45 p.m., tired, but happy. It had been a rare day on Hood, sunny and windless, for the most part.

Climbers were: Steve Barron, Fred Byrum, Larry Kirkpatrick, Robert Laney, Craig Lozzi and Paul Newman, nonmembers, and Alice Moffitt, Chris Orum and Norm Benton (leader), members.


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