May 10-11, 1980
What a wonderful feeling to get away from urban living and modern conveniences, with their decadence and soft living, and return to the simplicity and hardship of the mountains. The Saturday we drove to Mt. Hood, rainfall became heavier the farther into the mountains we travelled. Jettisoning thoughts of simplicity and hardship, we stayed in a delightful cabin at Rhododendron, belonging to a friend of Larry Tucker.
Next morning, leaving the sign-out shack at a reasonably early time, 4:30, the group sauntered to Illumination Saddle. This was the only easy walking on the trip. Upon descending to Reid Glacier, the group immediately encountered soft, new snow — only 1 foot at first, but the stuff got deeper the closer the group got to the Hourglass. In the chute, the snow at times was up to the climbers’ waists.
After several hours of struggling, we reached the top of the chute with 500 vertical feet remaining. At this point the group decided to call it quits. We were becoming exhausted, and the route lying ahead led through more deep snow. The leader can truthfully say that he has not worked that hard on a mountain in 20 years.
On this trip were: Larry Tucker, Steve Lulay, and Jack Nitzel, leader.