Mt. Hood—Wy’East Route

May 19-20, 1979

Camped at 8800' along side White River Glacier. Cut tent platforms into the steep slope and hoped no one would roll into the large crevasse just below camp. San Miller staggered late into camp, exhausted. I saw Miller when he was tired, hanging over his ice ax!! Ha! He can’t hack a little mountain like Hood! (Though I have to admit he was just arriving from climbing Eliot Headwall on the North face, and would be climbing with us again tomorrow.)

At 4:30 a.m. crossed glacier and climbed the back side of Steel Cliff under warm, clear skies. Crossing the top of Newton-Clark Glacier, Joachim’s camera case, followed by Max’s borrowed hard hat, bounced 2000 feet down the snow and disappeared. I won’t repeat the intriguing colloquialisms uttered by these two.

We were then overtaken by two Mazamas, Lath Flanagan and Friend. I endured a tongue-lashing for having more Obsidians (some 45 between Bob Moffitt’s and my group) than Mazamas on the mountain. And I now humbly repent—I will never again refer to “Mazama Trench” on Mt. Hood. It will now forever be “Obsidian Trench.”

After a brief icy spot, we reached the summit. Descended to camp where half the group skied, and half walked back to the Lodge. They were Dan Bates, Lee Hatch, Max Bennett, Mark Cook, Dave Lewinsohn, Glenn Meares, Dan McLaughlin, Sam Miller, Joachim Prufer, Larry Tucker and leader Bert Ewing.


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