North Sister

September 9-11, 1977

This three-day climb started Friday with all eleven climbers in camp at the spring above Sunshine by nightfall. We left camp at 6:00 a.m. Saturday at a slow easy pace and reached the summit at 1:30 p.m. and had a leisurely lunch in a perfectly clear, warm, non-windy day. Rappelling was used down the upper portion of the chute (belay up), with a belay used in the lower portion, both ways, and a hand line across a portion of the “dinner plate” both ways. Everyone was back in camp by 8:30 p.m. for dinner, a good night’s rest and a pleasant hike out Sunday morning.

It was noticed that significant changes have taken place in the upper reaches of Collier Glacier from the previous year. Two huge crevasses cross the glacier east to west across what one normally takes to approach the south ridge of the North Sister. A detour is forced south around the complete edge of the glacier as bergschrunds are appearing there also. Many, many fissures are also apparent. Several survey markers and a portable weather station were also noted on the glacier.

Climbers reaching the summit were Ewart Baldwin, Dorothy Hayes, Jan Middleswart, Henrietta Richmond, Bob Smythe, Connie & Millard Thomas, and leaders Wes Prouty and Glenn Meares. Also climbing were Merle Traudt and Greg Wannier.


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