North Sister via Villard Glacier

June 7-8, 1974

Villard Glacier was in a glazed condition by the time we arrived so we moved over to the North Ridge about half ways up. We continued up the ridge to Glisan Rock and over directly next to the rock. Steps were cut out of necessity for the nearly vertical climb of approximately 100 ft. to reach a snow shelf which skirted the rock. The pinnacle was in poor condition but we managed to climb on the rotten rock on the right side of the upper shoot which was a 90 degree glazed over mess. The descending climb went well except for a few spots which were still icy and prevented any hell plunging. We were at the base of the glacier by 6 p.m. An unusual amount of time was spent in safety precautions because of the amount of snow and ice. Everyone climbed very well and I was pleased with the climb as a whole. Because of my error we became lost on our way down to the cars. We had to spend an extra night out before we reached our cars. Everyone was exhausted. I will remember to bring wands next time. A great climb!! Steve Blowers, Eric Kersgaard, Glen Meares, Jack Nitzel and David Chase, the leader were the exhausted ones.


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