Mt. Washington

August 18-19, 1973

A good climb on a good weather day. Camped around the south side of Big Lake Sat. nite, made the summit from there in 5½ hours on Sun. Everyone on the climb was cooperative except for a problem with Ray McIntosh. Early in the climb on the ridge down low, just where it breaks out of the forest, Ray was displaying “out of condition” problems, upset stomack problems or something along those lines. He was sweating profusly, felt, weak at times, had diarrhea, etc. My assistant leader, Steve Ross, stayed back with him, offered assistance and offers to help him continue up at a slow pace, if Ray wished to continue. Three times Ray made attempts to continue up and each time only a matter of yards before the uphill effort did him in. Ray finally said he didn’t want to go up further, but would make it back to camp OK. Steve made it very clear to him that if Ray went back down he would have to go back all the way to camp and was definitely not to turn around and try to come back up. Ray agreed to this and then Steve explained that aspect all over again to make sure that Ray understood. Ray started down, and just seemed fine as long as he was going downhill. Steve stayed with him awhile to make sure he was going to be OK. Steve turned back up and joined the rest of the group. We got to the saddle and I proceeded up to the rappel point and began belaying people up to there. While I was doing that, Ray comes climbing up to the saddle alone. I did not mkae a fuss then because it was already done. I had not had a chance to check all details with Steve and I didn’t want to upset the rest of the climbers.

After checking the facts later my cur- rent feeling and opinion is this: you, the climbing comm. do what you think is best so far as allowing Ray on future climbs. As far as I’m concerned I do not want him on any climb I am leading. Ray, by going back up on his own, clearly violated agreement reached with my asst. leader. If he had gotten hurt up there and not shown up at camp, we would not have found him for a long time because we would not reached tween where Steve left him and camp. Ray is not a kid, he is an adult . . at least by age. I do not wish to take this kind of adult—one with very juvenile judgment and behavior on another climb. If you have any questions of me on this matter I would be most willing to cooperate. The rest of the climb went very well—it was a nice, well mannered, enjoyable group. They did everything I asked as far as safety was concerned and I think they all had a nice and good time. On this party were: Ken Ball, Wes Brooks, Jim Eagle, Jeff Cheever, Chuck Kibby, Pete Kraft, Tom Lockhart, Gary Loomas, Ray McIntosh, Jon Pelkey and Steve Ross asst. ldr and Dale Moon, Ldr.

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