Mt. Hood - North Side

July 14, 1973

Left Eugene at 4:30 p.m., Friday 13th. Drove to Cloud Camp Inn via Portland and Government Camp, arriving at 10 p.m. Hike from Cloud Camp Inn approximately ¾ mi up trail to camp on the Elliott Glacier morraine at timberline. Got up at 2 a.m. under a full moon and left camp shortly before 3. Hiked southwest up the moraine and then dropped onto Elliott Glacier and crossed to the west side onto Sunshine Route proper. Crossed the bergschrund located a few hundred yards below the summit ridge via a vertical crax that bisected the schrund. Used one snow picket for protection on this lead. Arrived at the summit at 10:45, spending an hour on top watching butterflies, descending via Cooper Spur Route. Arrived at base camp at 3:30. Although we had planned to stay over Saturday afternoon and evening, returning Sunday, we were down early enough to return to Eugene on Sat. night arriving at 10:30.

Recommendation: It would be better to schedule this climb in late June or very early in July as soon as it is possible to drive to Cloud Camp Inn. The snow was a little softer than desirable in this climb and the glissading down the lower sections of the Cooper Spur Route was inferior because of the sun-pitting of the snow. Mike Gilbert, Steve Northrop, Gary Kirk asst. leader and Jim Harrang, leader.

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