April 6: to Island Peak high camp

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On April 6 we moved up to the Island Peak high camp at about 18,000 feet. It took us less time than we anticipated — we were up to camp by late morning, even though we were carrying loads (tents, stoves, food, climbing gear etc) for the first time in the trip. The route up from high camp didn’t look all that tough, but it sure looked rubbly — up a gulley, then onto a ridge up to the glacier.

We melted snow to fill water bottles, made soup, read, repacked, rested, cooked dinner, and prepared for an early start for the summit.

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